, and I could almost imagine it was the 1960s, and we were at a country-club dance on Long Island or a cotillion in the South. The opening white dresses, in crisp cotton and eyelet, with full skirts, literally floated away from the body. The final trio of gowns recalled the sedate princess style — a bow at the waist, the long white gloves — worn by millions of women in the ’60s and early ’70s. I thought of the Nixon daughters, Tricia and Julie.
The show’s conservative styles, including boxy little suits and babydoll dresses with Peter Pan collars, belong not merely to the Establishment elite but also to a period of intense political and cultural change, ignited by the Free Speech Movement, the horrors of the Vietnam War, the civil-rights movement, and the fight by women for equality.
“We tried not to overthink anything,” Jacobs said afterward. He had on jeans, a white shirt, and extra-long bejeweled nails. Be that as it may, Jacobs and his studio team had a lot on their minds. They also allow room for interpretation, which for me is one of the most exciting things aboutThis time, he said: “While the future remains unwritten, I am steadfast in my daily practice of choosing love over hate, faith over fear and finding pause in reflection.
It was hard not to see the collection as both bold and a swipe at conservative attitudes, including “quiet luxury.” Much of the boldness came from the intense colors — the deep blues, pinks, and reds, often combined together or with a jolt of chartreuse or stark white. One outfit, a white over-scaled jacket with a bright-red A-line skirt and turquoise pumps with turned-up elf toes, seemed a riff on flag colors, with a twist provided by the shoes, and Fourth of July gatherings.
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