: a runway show decorated with an enormous table-and-chair set that made his models look like teeny, chic action figures. So when Marc Jacobs’s stiffened-up, over-the-top, oversize looks came marching down the halls of the New York Public Library for fall 2024 on July 1, it was all the more obvious the designer had committed to the theme.
In Jacobs’s typical style, the show started promptly on time, and only lasted about six minutes. Five sculptural white dresses barreled down the runway first, their hemlines lifted and twisted and their proportions made massive so that they appeared to hang off the shoulders. The doll effect went beyond the clothes—hair was pulled back tightly into a sculptural coif by Duffy, and the models wore giant, cartoon-like, pastel eyelids that resembled Janice from the Muppets.
For fall 2024, that meant the “Itsy Bitsy Teenie Weenie Yellow Polka Dot Bikini” came oversize and shaped like it had been pinned onto the model. Sculptural pink-and-black lace and polka-dot looks that outlined the body’s silhouette sparked instant thoughts of Barbie, the artful swoops in their hair resembling Olive Oyl’s ‘do. Big red-and-white polka dots were insta-Minnie Mouse. Cardigans worn unbuttoned were pure Polly Pocket.
The accessories were larger than life: bags were big, and looked like pieces of candy in bubble-gum pink and white. Jacobs is having fun in fashion—both in his designs and by decorating himself—and it shows. In our increasingly weird real world, doll dressing might just be the answer for escapist fantasy.
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