Sharon McDonnell has written on travel, food, drink, culture, and profiles for 25 years, published in Conde Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure, Teatime, New York Times, Fodors.com, USA Today, and more.Thailand’s biggest island, Phuket is often equated with beach resorts. But its capital, Phuket Town, ignored by most tourists who stampede to the beaches , is a UNESCO City of Gastronomy, where distinctive food melds Thai, Chinese, and Muslim influences.
At Cham Cha Market, an outdoor market selling mostly ready-to-eat foods, I munched on popiah sod, a flour wrapper with a grilled pork, peanuts, beansprouts, small dried shrimps, and lettuce filling doused in tangy tamarind sauce — so popular, its vendor sells about 1,000 a day. A perpetual motion machine, he’s a blur of continuously laying out wrappers, filling, and rolling them.
Another unexpected combo: the squid and blue cheese, where he prepares the squid in four ways, from a confit in XO oil, raw and marinated with organic lemon skin, a squid “ham” smoked and aged for a month, and caramelized in a sauce that uses blue cheese from Chiang Rai, paired with sour herbs.
Whether you dine on the lush plant-filled patio or indoors, you’ll be distracted by the Native American-inspired deer, moose, and horse designs on the canvas ceiling and walls, which Schwarz hand-painted. Named after the Plains Indian word for “buffalo” , his eatery is a 15-minute walk from Laguna Phuket, a multi-resort complex on Bang Tao beach that includes Banyan Tree, Dusit, and Angsana hotels.
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