is not a dissimilar experience to dropping $200 a head on a prix fixe in Toronto’s financial district. Everything looks very impressive in the moment, the room is as attractive as the company and it seems that every need or desire is anticipated. But there is also the good chance that you walk out – from the restaurant, from the movie – feeling superficially stuffed, and perhaps even a bit ripped off. Good food, small portions.is as much fun as it is ephemeral.
The film opens like an Agatha Christie story for the Michelin Guide set, with a group of well-heeled jerks gathered for a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to dine at Hawthorne, a farm-to-table restaurant located on a remote island that recalls celebrated Copenhagen establishment Noma, but with a gothic dash of.
Not as excited about the prospect of downing gels and foams and edible flowers, though, is Margot , a last-minute date for the petulant rich foodie Tyler . Margot’s working-class presence acts as an easy proxy for everyone in the audience more accustomed to fast-food-casual dining – the way that she rolls her eyes at the mention of “mouth feel” is impeccable – but she also throws off Slowik’s plans to a distressing degree.
Director Mark Mylod keeps the courses and conversations coming at a brisk pace, moving so confidently between characters and twists that you don’t want to stop to think about the rather sour plot mechanics. And just as the collection of diners resemble fish in a barrel – who is easier to hate, the film argues, than a professional critic? – the actors cast to play them elevate the entire affair.