Holzweiler’s South Norweigan studio faces the Oslofjord, a breathtaking inlet that is part of the Skagerrak strait, connecting the North Sea and the Kattegat sea area. Nature is integral to the design approach of the brand – which branched from scarf design into ready-to-wear in 2014 – and works with sustainability-minded manufacturing processes, including swimwear designed with recycled polyester and in Europe, biodegradable packaging.
For A/W 2020, Holzweiler has gazed not out to sea but down to the ground we walk on, with ‘Our Soil’ – a collection of durable, tactile and organically-toned pieces, featuring fossil prints and knitted patterns, spanning tailoring and workwear. This was presented against a greenhouse-inspired show set, designed by regular collaborators and Wallpaper* Design Awards 2020 winners, Snøhetta.
‘Nature is a big part of our inspiration as its surrounds us everyday’ — Susanne Holzweiler, Holzweiler co-founder and brand director At warehouse space The Plant – a former plastic sorting factory – a runway featured a glass tunnel housing a variety of hardy Nordic plants available in Denmark in January, including foraged seedpods sourced from an organic farm outside Copenhagen and ornamental grasses. These were sourced in collaboration with floral designer Moa Nordahl to complement the colours and robust fabrics in Holzweiler’s collection.
‘We gave Snøhetta the challenge of creating something that could be mounted and dismounted again in smaller scale,’ Holzweiler says. It was a challenge the architects relished. ‘The temporality of the installation was very exciting,’ add Girgis and Tardieu. ‘It demands a fantastic coordination between creative ideas and the built form.
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