Virgil Abloh has dubbed his men’s Pre-Fall collection “Pivot,” and printed the word in a graphic font down the legs of silk pants. “Off-White is now not the new kid on the block,” the designer said on the phone from Chicago. “I was interested in fast-forwarding the menswear up to where the womenswear is at.”
What does this mean for Off-White fans? The designer seems keen to insinuate his label into the tailoring conversation that’s dominating men’s fashion at the moment. His Pre-Fall suit is exceedingly slim, the jacket tucked neatly into the waistband of well-fitting trousers. He’s also experimented with pants silhouettes, the most directional being a sturdy leather pair spliced at the ankles so that the hems flare out to the floor.
The evolution extends to the Off-White logo itself, which has received a rebranding. “It kind of breaks the shackles off of doing the same thing.” That said, streetwear hasn’t been shown the door entirely. You can still pick up a hoodie; this season’s comes screenprinted with the Mona Lisa. And there are still plenty of graphic treatments, including the name “Abloh” embroidered in script on a varsity jacket. “Logomania—I’ve been a part of that movement. That’s what streetwear is,” he says.
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