Supriya Lele Spring/Summer 2020 Ready-To-Wear show report

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After just a few seasons showing at LFW, Supriya Lele has consolidated a unique take on her cultural heritage, blending the forms and fabrications of her Indian background with her experiences as a British woman.

fter just a few seasons showing at London Fashion Week, Supriya Lele has consolidated a unique take on her cultural heritage, blending the forms and fabrications of her Indian background with her experiences as a British woman. Growing up in the West Midlands in the Nineties, she was always more taken with Helmut Lang and Slayer than the ornate fabrications of her parents' homeland – and the brand she has built reflects that lo-fi sensibility.

Her clothing, though, shows how brilliantly she now seems to be navigating the nuances of her dual identity – and the aesthetic she expresses could be distilled down to a single look. A lime green madras checked coat overlaid with a black transparent layer was standout: “We were looking at skeletons of your identity, a sort of ghostly idea of not knowing whether you’re here or there,” she explained, of its amalgam of Indian tradition and Nineties Britain.

Lele’s personal perspective, which has been established alongside the all-female collaborators she works with, made for a thoroughly contemporary collection that was at once cool and refined. In her show notes, she described her team as having “daily, formative conversations about fine-tuning a femininity that speaks for them.

 

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