How 'Pose' perfectly re-creates the queer ball culture of 1990 New York

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Behind the scenes of how FX’s “Pose” throws a ball.

This post contains spoilers for Tuesday’s episode of “Pose,” “Never Knew Love Like This Before.”

When it comes to choosing the themes for each episode’s ball, there are two approaches, explained Canals, writer and director of “Revelations”: balls that provide a colorful reprieve from the drama and balls that are central to the narrative. So costume designer Analucia McGorty repurposed a 1930s kimono, purchased at a thrift shop, into Pray Tell’s wide-legged, Asian-influenced suit, worn over a button-down and tie. The luxurious blend of masculine and feminine is typical of the character, one of the few on “Pose” who never repeats an outfit. “He’s an MC, he’s an elder and he’s a designer, so he’s got to play that up,” McGorty said, pointing to the long garment rack devoted to his looks.

“It’s lots of lashes, glitter, big lips, nails,” said makeup department head Sherri Berman Laurence, seated in the narrow makeup trailer, whose walls are covered in inspirational collages. Meanwhile, 14 stylists are coiffing the hordes of background players using about 50 wigs designated for extras. To authentically represent the ballgoers, many of whom have little money, the show uses a mix of high-end hairpieces and “shake-and-go street wigs,” Moe said. “It was important to me to make sure we aren’t using wigs that are all expensive. If you put some time into it, you can end up with these glamorous hairstyles. And some of them aren’t so glamorous, because they’re real.

For Femme Queen Vogue, Martin Woodall liked disco and early ‘80s — “uptempo with attitude.” James’ song is “fun but pointed” and therefore fitting for the scene, which cuts between the competition and the House of Evangelista argument. Little about her performance seems “watered-down,” though. She spins and dips dramatically and bounces kinetically during the low, squatting move known as the “duck walk,” all while tossing her curly mane.During the Butch Queen Vogue competition performance, Damon riles up the crowd with a fierce floor performance — posing and thrusting his limbs while on the ground, at one point balancing his weight on a single shoulder.

 

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