The idea of freedom has been on the minds of many designers this season. It isn’t surprising, living as we are in a moment when freedom is clearly under threat. Without making any political statement, Alessandro Dell’Acqua addressed the issue his way. Being one of fashion’s adroit cinéphiles, he referred to the French Nouvelle Vague, which in the early ‘60s subverted the rules of filmmaking in favor of a more freestyle, realistic, low-fi approach.
“I’d like to bring back a sense of inventive elegance,” he explained. ”A sort of new spirit of creative curiosity.” To drive home the point, he focused both his men’s and women’s collections on relaxed tailoring infused with playful lightness. He kept the sportswear references to a minimum, mirroring one of today’s shifting paradigms. As at many other labels, a sporty feel was suggested via the comfort inherent to the garments’ construction more so than by an overt, literal interpretation.