Schiaparelli’s Sensual Couture Show Looks to the Work of Charles James

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Daniel Roseberry’s Autumn/Winter 2024 haute couture collection looked to Schiaparelli’s archives, taking in the work of the couturier Charles James as its crux

Sensuality isn’t just about looking, or about flashing flesh. It’s about touch, and that’s also where Roseberry got his rocks off. There were dresses encrusted with globules of metal, jackets quivering with bead-tipped organza spears, another velvet number polka-dotted with gilded metal plates like Midas’ grubby finger-prints .

There was also a swaggering, confident new take on the Schiaparelli Shoulder, the emphatic square-padded silhouette Elsa made her own and reshaped 1930s fashion with as sweepingly as Dior did in 1947. But Roseberry didn’t reiterate the idea, he reimagined it with a swaying, curved shoulder exaggerated to register big-time in 2024. Schiaparelli called both her perfume and her autobiography Shocking: she was no shrinking violet.

 

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