To somewhat understate the case, the new, third season of FX's 'The Bear,' back Wednesday on Hulu, is as magnificent as television ever gets. I'm not here to tell you what happens in it, but it's not particularly a plot-driven season in any case — though there are challenges the characters face and the question, which hangs over the entire series, of who and what will manage to hold together, and who and what will break apart.
There is a heartwarming unreality at the heart of 'The Bear,' which began as 'The Bad News Bears,' with beef sandwiches; now the team has advanced into the major leagues. Apart from Sydney , Carmy's voyage into fine dining relies entirely on the staff he inherited from his late brother Mikey , which, overcoming their resistance, he inspired, retrained and, as they say in the cooking competitions, elevated.
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