For Erdem Moralioğlu, there’s no better muse than a multifaceted heroine. The Italian aristocrat Principessa Orietta Pogson Doria Pamphilj, who inherited a 1,000-room Roman palazzo after her antifascist father’s arrest, inspired the British-Turkish designer’s fall 2019 Erdem collection. Italian silent-film-actor-turned-photographer-and-political-activist Tina Modotti was the muse for spring 2020; American-born Greek opera star Maria Callas informed Erdem pre-fall 2024.
It’s safe to say the Canada-born, London-based designer has made translating idiosyncratic women’s lives into sartorial splendor his calling card. And rarely has he gotten to explore his subjects as in-depth as he did for his pre-spring and spring-summer 2024 collections, which paid homage to English aristocrat, writer, and socialite, Deborah, Duchess of Devonshire.
“Growing up, Chatsworth was like Versailles,” says Moralioğlu of the 35,000-acre country estate, just an hour north of Birmingham, the designer’s mother’s hometown. In 1941, Debo, the youngest of the famed Mitford sisters and society doyennes, married Andrew Cavendish, 11th Duke of Devonshire, whose family had lived at Chatsworth since it was built in 1549.
“The exhibition brings together Deborah’s multifaceted personality, sharing Deborah’s passion for keeping chickens, country life, and the music of Elvis Presley,” Stokoe, who joined Chatsworth’s collections department in 2009, tells. Debo’s confident style and unexpected quirks influenced Moralioğlu. “We suddenly found ourselves screen printing chickens over cocktail dresses and making chicken earrings.
These garments, and many more, have been sprinkled throughout Chatsworth’s opulent Regency Guest Bedrooms, where Moralioğlu’s sketches, toiles, and maquettes are in dialogue with photographs, objects, and ephemera belonging to the Duchess. In the Wellington Dressing Room, Debo’s favorite Elvis slippers sit beside an imposing green Polonaise bed. In the Alcove Bedroom, the Duchess’s bejeweled insect brooches provide context for beaded and embroidered bugs crawling up Erdem ensembles.
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