On a hot Monday morning in Paris, Schiaparelli creative director Daniel Roseberry presented his fall 2024 couture collection—one full of enigmas and mesmerizing shapes. Instead of holding his show at the usual Petit Palais museum location, guests traversed into a subterranean, pitch-black, cavernous room of the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild in the 8th arrondissement; Doja Cat, Kylie Jenner, and Selma Blair sat front row, dressed in a trio of the brand’s extraterrestrial looks.
Roseberry’s version of Schiaparelli has become one of the most decadent, spellbinding shows of the entire couture season . But for fall 2024, the collection was all about the form—a distinctly feminine one, at that. The first model opened the show wearing a theatrical, molded silver gown made of details that resembled gleaming angel wings. She sauntered out slowly, setting her gaze on the audience and breaking the fourth wall in a way one rarely sees at couture.
The salon-style presentation was made even more dramatic by the soundtrack. A live version of Nina Simone’s “Plain Gold Ring” rang out, and the closing looks were further brought to life with an emotional, raw, live version of Gloria Gaynor’s “I Will Survive.” To cap off the collection, structured, cascading gowns floated down the runway—and elicited gasps from the client section of the audience. As Roseberry said in the show notes, “I was told recently that ‘people don’t buy Schiaparelli, they collect it.’ That kind of devotion is inspired only by a unique relationship between client and creation.” With a front row decked out in the brand’s signature face bags, yellow-gold jewelry, and even that crystal computer baby, these words certainly rang true.
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