That was Rei Kawakubo’s brief manifesto for her Comme des Garçons Homme Plus show on Friday, which lifted the spirits with its dressy, occasionally sparkly fabrics; almost as much pink as black, and wondrous embellishments with fabric that oozed and sagged from seams, jutted in stiff ruff-like formations, or came arranged into loose bows.
Tailoring is always the foundation for Kawakubo’s menswear, and she supercharged it with all manner of ruffles — some of them geometric in the way of a radiator; others more Elizabethan and romantic.The opening suits and tailored coats in black, with stiff layers of crisp white tulle underneath, set a formal, dressy template that was sustained throughout the show.
The Barbie pink first crept in as scarf-like protrusions from black tailored jackets, piping on loose black shorts, and zip-on tulle trenchcoat sleeves. Ultimately, it reached a crescendo in nearly fluorescent frock coats festooned with loose fabric bows.
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