The first item in the new exhibition at Chatsworth House celebrating the legacy of the late Duchess of Devonshire is a tweed suit. The youngest Mitford sister was a chicken lover and the bottom few inches – poultry head-height – have been intentionally dishevelled as if ravaged by her Buff Cochins and Welsummers.Moralıoğlu, whose last spring/summer show was a love letter to “Debo”, her wardrobe and the estate in Derbyshire of which she was chatelaine until her death, aged 94, in 2014.
Taking the duchess’s wardrobe has allowed for fun, elegance and poetry. From her own collection, there are no-nonsense white-collared shirts, elegant opera gloves and chic yellow taffeta evening shoes. There is a small clutch in the shape of a hen that looks like it could have been teleported to Derbyshire from aDesigns inspired by her love of chickens sit alongside those inspired by her other love, Elvis.
Her jewellery collection was also a source of inspiration, some of which is on display alongside the looks it launched. Aflutter with brooches of bugs – every year her husband would give her a new insect brooch, which Moralıoğlu described as “a little act of love”. The process of creating the collection, as he told press at a preview of the exhibition on Wednesday, “became a kind of truly imaginary conversation between someone I’ve never met as a muse and myself. So what you see is maybe not an exact portrait of someone, but rather something through a lens.”Having spent so long in imaginary conversation with her, what would he ask if he met her for real? “I would ask her about the first day she moved in ,” said Moralıoğlu.
While many designers have been inspired by the Mitfords, and Deborah in particular, Moralıoğlu was given rare access to the extensive – and growing – archives of Chatsworth, which house about 1,000 items. “There were rooms just floor to ceiling,” said Susie Stokoe, head of textiles at Chatsworth. “I found 64 rugs in one room, all rolled up with string … Deborah didn’t throw anything away.
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Source: 7NewsAustralia - 🏆 11. / 71 Read more »