At Plum Village, actor Jeremy Chan discovers Hakka pen cai, yong tau foo, radish balls and more

Besides abacus seeds, yong tau foo and, more recently, thunder tea rice, Hakka cuisine has largely remained a mystery to me. This, despite my mother being part-Hakka . Coincidentally, my Makan Kaki, best actor winner at theSo he decided that we should visit what could be the last remaining Hakka eatery in Singapore –“I decided to name the restaurant Plum Village because we Hakka have five areas, just like the five petals of a plum blossom, hence 'Mei' .

According to Singapore’s population census in 2020, nearly 10 per cent of the country’s Chinese population are Hakka, meaning “guest families”. Unlikehistorically, theyAs nomadic peoples, their cuisine was influenced by other dialect groups, which makes Hakka food different, yet familiar. When I commented that it looked like a large pot of soupy yong tau foo, Chef Lai agreed. “Yes, it’s the same. When this dish travelled southwards to Singapore, it took on another distinctive style. In the past, this was the traditional, homemade version of pen cai,” he said.

Jeremy observed that each piece of tofu was substantial enough to withstand the heft of its stuffing. “Surprisingly, the meat holds together. The flavour is locked in. I didn’t know Hakka food can be so delicious,” he said. Next, tapioca starch to bind the ingredients, then we slowly mixed everything by hand before shaping, taking care not to pack each radish ball too tightly. “Don’t press it too hard. Keep it slightly loose for steam to get in, otherwise the meat inside may not cook thoroughly,” Chef Lai specified.Rolling the radish balls.

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