‘Rage, poetry, hope’: The State of Fashion Biennale 2024 addresses a need to change the system

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London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*.

An alternative fashion system is currently nestled amongst the folded seats of a disused cinema in Arnhem. There, some 100 or so works of art, sculpture and fashion make up this year’s edition of the State of Fashion Biennale, ‘Ties that Bind’.

Applicants to an open call for curators in February 2023 were asked to respond to the issues that arose from the previous edition. How could the biennale’s format illuminate untold stories and redefine the global power imbalance? In their proposal, the art historian Rachel Dedman and designer Louise Bennetts suggested redistributing the funding available beyond the context of the Netherlands.

The State of Fashion Biennale is an amplification of kinship; the meeting of practices and artists from across the world. ‘We're encouraging people to think about clothing more meaningfully. Part of the issue is just how disposable it has become,’ Bennets says. ‘In some ways the word “fashion” can be a bit of a turn-off.

 

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