Provençal Tian (Eggplant, Zucchini, Squash, and Tomato Casserole) Recipe

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Casserole News

Eggplant,Squash,Tomato

At the end of the movie Ratatouille, Remy the rat creates a beautiful reinterpretation of a classic ratatouille. Only problem: It's not a ratatouille at all. It's a tian, and they've been making it in Provence for generations. This version features thinly sliced zucchini, summer squash, and eggplant, along with a simple tomato sauce.

Daniel joined the Serious Eats culinary team in 2014 and writes recipes, equipment reviews, articles on cooking techniques. Prior to that he was a food editor at Food & Wine magazine, and the staff writer for Time Out New York's restaurant and bars section.Pre-cooking each vegetable in a skillet removes excess moisture and browns the slices, making the final dish much more flavorful.

Technically, a tian is any casserole cooked in an earthenware vessel by the same name, but these days it almost always refers to some kind of layered vegetable dish that's gratinéed in the oven. Zucchini and other squash are very common in tians, as are eggplant and tomato.

So, not only do I want to restore this dish to its proper name—a tian—I also want to improve how this particular tian tastes, making sure that the flavors end up concentrated and intense, not watery and bland.The obvious fix is to pre-cook each vegetable individually to get rid of some of the excess moisture before layering them together. Plus, pre-cooking means we can better develop their flavors by browning each piece, which is almost impossible when they're steaming away in the oven.

I tried pre-salting the eggplant and squashes to drive off some excess moisture before putting them in the oven. But those thin slices absorb way too much salt, and, since they're the bulk of the final dish, it ends up horribly salty.Ultimately, I found that the best method was to sauté each sliced vegetable in a very hot skillet, working in batches small enough to guarantee that they'd brown before they risked overcooking and turning to mush.

 

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