Max Allen reviews winning Yarra Valley wines from the Pulp: The People’s Wine Show 2024 in Melbourne

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Max Allen translates a Melbourne hipster drinks event for his generation.

When did wine tastings become so exhausting? In the old days, before we all had smartphones and TikTok accounts and thousands of followers thirsty for content, a wine tasting was a simple, laid-back affair. You’d rock up and spend a relaxing hour or two sniffing and slurping and chatting to a few winemakers, and then you’d go to the pub for a cleansing ale. Or two.

Rising star winemaker Natillie Johnston explained how the event would run. “You’ve got quite a bit of work to do,” she smiled. “We want you to taste through each group of wines. See what I mean? Exhausting. But the crowd didn’t seem fazed. They grabbed glasses and set to sniffing, clicking, scrolling and selecting. And occasionally spitting. After a couple of hours, the results were revealed on the screen. And it’s a fascinating snapshot of what real drinkers – rather than hacks like me, living in our ivory tasting rooms – are looking for in wine today.’s Garden Spritz , with its pleasing touch of bittersweet orange and spice.

The “best in show” prize went to Johnston’s pinot. Which I can’t help feeling is a bit ironic: of all the adventurous modern wines on show here, the top spot was taken out by one of the most conventional – and I mean that in the nicest possible way.

 

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