– Designer documentary is no puff piece but it doesn’t quite elicit the answers it seeks

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Intriguing film about the British fashion icon ultimately fails to get to the bottom of racist and anti-Semitic remarks that got him fired

Central to any fashion-themed documentary is a parade of famous talking heads hailing unbridled genius. Kevin Macdonald’s portrait of John Galliano, the controversial former creative director of Givenchy and Dior, can’t quite escape the trope. Fashion-doc veterans, including Anna Wintour and the late André Leon Talley, are present and correct.

High & Low is no puff piece, however. In February 2011 Galliano was filmed making a string of racist and anti-Semitic remarks. He was promptly fired from his job and convicted by a French court. Fashionistas will know that Wintour and other fans rallied around and that Galliano went into rehab, sought advice from a rabbi and is now designing at the hip Belgian house Maison Margiela.

Mostly, this is a film of intriguing, maddening loose ends. Did Galliano self-sabotage to escape the impossible corporate demands of 32 collections a year? Are there anti-Semitic clues in his deeply Catholic upbringing?

 

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