Try a new-school martini at this hidden Old City backroom bar

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Espresso martinis may still rule the day, but martinis dry, dirty, and otherwise are regaining ground in Philly. Try two experimental iterations at Old City's Art in the Age cocktail bar.

Ice-cold, crystal-clear, and bracing, the classic martini has never fallen out of fashion. But its opaque, caffeinated counterpart — the espresso martini — now appears on so many menus that there’s no denying: The original has taken a temporary backseat., thanks to experimental bartenders. They’re olive oil-washing the gin, infusing the vermouth, and tinkering with ratios, ingredients, and garnishes to come up with novel takes on a timeless formula.

“It definitely feels like a martini,” says general manager Craig Richie, “but if you’re looking for the kind of martini that is effectively just cold vodka ... it is not going to necessarily satisfy that craving.”Art in the Age’s bartenders combine local cherry tomatoes with dry vermouth and let the mixture sit overnight to infuse the botanical spirit with sweet and savory notes.

A quarter ounce of the syrup blend plus a quarter ounce of lemon juice give the Picnic Martini that bright, summery quality. The drink is finished with dashes of saline and olive oil and a speared cherry tomato half covered in flaky sea salt. And even though this is definitely a cocktail bar’s cocktail, you can buy everything you need to recreate it at home right there in the bar.

 

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