He then remarked that chefs in Sabah “need more exposure in Malaysian cuisine” than just “Chinese Sabahan dishes”. It is unfortunate that Chef Wan did not have the opportunity to taste and savour the diverse gastronomy that Sabah is known for, especially among its own ethnic communities.
Simply put, the culinary style of Sabahans is not homogeneous. Influenced by their surrounding environment and connection to nature, each ethnic group has unique preparations and rich flavours, often using wild ingredients that are not found everywhere. Driven by cultural kinship, their culinary traditions also share similarities with those of neighbouring countries, namely the Philippines, Brunei and Indonesia.
For example, nasi lemak, chapati and char kuey teow are accepted as Malaysian dishes despite their origins, and are popular nationwide. Although some of them are readily available in many local eateries, they have yet to become mainstream food that appeal to the masses in terms of demand. It’s also worth noting that although most Sabahans are acquainted with these dishes, their consumption is not widespread and is usually confined to the ethnic groups associated with them. In the 1970s and 80s, Sabahans were not accustomed to many dishes that originated from the peninsula.