A Legendary Manhattan Dinner Party Where Black Luminaries Break Bread

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An Alexander Smalls’s dinner party at his home in Sugar Hill is about more than the food. (via EaterNY)

, daughter of hairdresser and millionaire Madame C.J. Walker. The socialite and heiress was known to host a bevy of intellectual and artistic friends, many of whom were Black and queer, during the Harlem Renaissance. More recently, B.

When Smalls relocated to New York in the 1970s, he lived in several neighborhoods, including Soho, the Village, and Upper West Side. In each, he hosted dinners and gatherings for a growing and eclectic group of friends. After moving into his Harlem apartment in 1998, he created a home that resembles a museum: An art collector, his walls are filled with images painted by artists spanning the Black diaspora, from Rwanda to Brazil. His bar is a holdover from his earlier restaurant, Sweet Ophelia’s.

“The idea is that you’re not just here to eat, you’re here to have an experience,” he says of his dinners. “A night might start with cocktails... followed by some pageantry at the table.” The food is focused, but not the main event. “I want you to know something about the food that you’re eating, and what and why and what it’s called and what’s in it and how it influences and tells the story of who we are as Black folk.”Sign up for our newsletter.Oops. Something went wrong.

 

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