In fact, it was more likely to have been goose. Even pork. These were the meats preserved in their own fat over many long hours to create one of the most important ways of keeping meat that is edible long after the animal’s slaughter. But it is confit duck that has truly stood the test of time and of geography. It travelled throughout France and out into the greater world.
Today, you’ll find confit duck legs on bistro menus throughout France. The joy of confit duck legs is that everything, including that skin, has been cooked to utter perfection. Weeks or even months later you can heat a dry frying pan or skillet, lift a leg out of its fat, lay it on the hot pan and let the sizzle crisp up that skin. Just that fat that remains on it after you shake it off over the container it has mellowed in for all that time is all you need.
To this end, in a sense it’s worth starting planning for confit duck long before you make it. Even more than six months ago… which is what I did…First, mix together 2 tsp salt with the leaves of 4 thyme sprigs. Rub this well into the fat and meat of the duck portions. Put them in the fridge, covered, for 6 hours or overnight.
But I had started with a whole duck, and it helps to do so as it gives you much more fat, and fat is what you need. I began by first trimming off the two wings, then cutting away the two leg and thigh quarters. Then I carefully cut out two neat breasts. These were to be that evening’s supper.