Iris Van Herpen Couture Spring 2023

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Modeled on film by divers in Europe's deepest pool, Iris Van Herpen's ethereal couture collection had a political undercurrent.

Iris Van Herpen’s otherworldly dresses, sometimes resembling undersea creatures, finally found themselves submerged — and in one of the deepest pools in Europe no less.

Opting for a filmed presentation, the Dutch designer conscripted French free diver Julie Gautier to interpret her springTo watch Gautier writhe and sway in the depths, tangled in the long strands of red hair attached to her dress, was to witness solidarity with the struggle of women in Iran, where morality police have been enforcing strict codes around dress and behavior, prompting global outrage.

Gautier and two models with diving experience perform arresting underwater dances with Van Herpen’s printed silks and laser-cut fronds swaying around them, creating a hypnotic choreography that speaks of fortitude, resilience and invincibility. Stirring original music by composer Miranda Vukasovic heightens the emotional poignancy.silks intensified in the water.

Van Herpen will host a showroom in Paris this week to show her clients how they can wear her creations on dry land. The designer has used glass, silicone, rubber, metal lace, iron filings, blended steel and resin in her creations, but it was her first time employing hair, both real and artificial.

 

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