I don’t think Reese Bros is playing at that level right now, but it’s commanding a solid middle ground between the two extremes that leaves room for its continued low-and-slow evolution, an evolution that involved brothers Nick and Elliott Reese learning their craft at La Barbecue in Austin and the West Texas wilds of Marathon before coming back to San Antonio, where they were born.
Low-and-slow became blow-and-go in September, when Bon Appetit magazine ranked Reese Bros Barbecue among the country’sSometimes I agree with those lists, and sometimes I wonder how a place that’s only open for a few hours three days a week makes a list like that. So I did my own research, as they say, and showed up at 10 a.m. on a couple of Fridays for an 11 a.m. opening, because I’d rather be first in line than halfway back wondering if they’ll run out. I’m so over barbecue lines, but real barbecue can’t be restocked on the fly, and the gods of supply and demand must be obeyed.
Reese Bros adheres to the Hill Country barbecue model of sauce on the side and no plate lunches. Just meat by the pound — brisket, turkey, pulled pork, pork ribs — along with sausage, sides and daily specials, all sold separately. There’s no cheap white bread. Instead, they make their own blue corn and flour tortillas for a little extra, and that little extra is worth a lot for a touch of San Antonio in this Central Texas scenario.The brisket will make you think of math.
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