Photo by EMMANUEL DUNAND/AFP via Getty Images
FKA Twigs closed Miu Miu’s spring 2023 show wearing a black micro mini with massive utilitarian pockets, black leather hybrid flip-flop boots that stretched all the way up to her knees, and a gray ribbed sweater with a white button-down underneath. The look of utilitarian ’90s minimalism was at this collection’s core, and dominated through a subverted lens of uniform dressing that merged the past and present—through a stilted, cyborg lens.
Of course, it wouldn’t be Miuccia Prada’s doing without a twisted edge. Even the most basic of basics were given the Mrs. Prada take: including the first few muted neutral dresses, composed of layered, tissue-thin t-shirts. Next came lightweight, ’90s-era parkas with drawstring hems and unzippered bottoms—constituting a part-boiler suit, part-futuristic uniform. Mrs.
for years, sure. But here—combined with the styling, the set, and the off-kilter proportions—it looked almost eerie, as if an algorithm had generated it.Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty ImagesPhoto by Victor Boyko/Getty ImagesThe collection, at its center, was a vision of past and present, strange and familiar, new and old. The distressed leather utilitarian belts that wrapped around waists read as a punkish apocalyptic shield, as did the oversized leather vests with chunky, beaten-up pockets.
Miu Miu has experimented with the minimalist look steeped in micro minis, buttons-downs, and boyish trousers for the past three seasons. But for spring 2023, it really felt like Mrs. Prada fully leaned into the minimalist’s gaze. More toned-down menswear also strode down the runway, and many of the pieces felt suited for any gender.
Ooof....a door smacked this gal hard in the face.
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