Going Brutalist: Louis Vuitton debuts latest collection at Salk Institute

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The French luxury house brought its annual Cruise show to San Diego's architectural landmark in La Jolla, designed in the 1960s by the great Louis Kahn

Louis Vuitton — one of fashion’s most revered houses — visited San Diego’s most revered architectural house Thursday evening. The Salk Institute for Biological Studies, sitting on a cliff overlooking a gleaming Pacific Ocean, was the perfect host, serving up an idyllic setting for the French brand to showcase its 2023 Cruise collection.

“Having spent a lot of time in California, I was drawn to the idea of showing there again,” Ghesquière said. “The Salk Institute has been a place of wonder for me over the years, and Louis Kahn’s stunning Brutalist architecture against this extraordinary setting of the Pacific Ocean and the California sunset provides me with endless inspiration. It also celebrates intelligence, knowledge and the belief in the power of science.

On Thursday, fashion-forward celebrities and common folk stepped onto the Salk Institute’s courtyard and sauntered to their assigned seats, gray concrete slabs that gave them prime views of the models, and for almost all, the best view of the evening’s star: the San Diego sunset. “I think it matches design personality, in terms of the shapes and character of this place,” added River Richie, a fashion intern who flew in from New York City for the show.

“There is in the Salk Institute this sense of majesty and an austerity,” Plotek previously told the San Diego Union-Tribune. “Kahn’s work, here in La Jolla and elsewhere, harken back to the past with a strong connection to the present. In a sense, they remind you of the pyramids, the great buildings in Rome, but they’re here now for us to experience. I think Kahn’s architecture was, quite deliberately, backward looking. ...

 

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