Since moving to California a couple of years ago, I’ve made an obsessive practice of procuring, tasting and cooking all the fruits this state does best. Citrus and stone fruit, sure, but also more idiosyncratic fruits like mulberries, loquats and quince. But this often means I overlook the more common fruits, especially grapes, which — maybe because of their omnipresence in a wine-producing state — can seem run-of-the-mill compared withthe shiny rarities at the market.
When I lived in New York, the Concord grape dominated my early fall market walks, their tough skins popping open like grocery store cherry tomatoes to reveal that characteristic tart, floral-packed pulp. In my hometown, a local artisan made muscadine jelly when I lived there, and this is what we’d always have on Saturday mornings with biscuits.
But instead of a traditional pie with its hefty filling-to-crust ratio, I wanted to temper the intensity of the grape’s flavor with more buttery pastry richness, so I opted for ainstead . This guaranteed me a thin layer of filling between two layers of crunchy, flaky crust. Basically, I made a big Pop-Tart.
Instead of throwing raw fruit and sugar in a pie crust though, I pre-cooked the filling first, a tip I’d learned from listening to several Concord pie bakers talk about how to get the filling just right. This does two things: It allows me to gauge the thickness of the filling, adding more thickener later if I want, but it also keeps any fruit juices from seeping into the bottom crust to make it soggy.
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