Pyer Moss’ first couture show was a celebration of Black innovation

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As the first Black American designer to show on the couture schedule, Kerby Jean-Raymond put a thought-provoking spin on fashion’s highest art form.

, Pyer Moss took over the Kings Theatre in Kerby’s hometown of Flatbush, Brooklyn to celebrate Sister Rosetta Tharpe, the queer Black woman who invented rock n’ roll.

It makes sense then that, when the weather cleared and Kerby was eventually able to put on his statement-making couture show, that it was a complete celebration of Black innovation. Entitled ‘WAT U IZ’, the spectacle was staged at, the Hudson River estate of America’s first female self-made millionaire and beauty mogul Madam C.J. Walker, who’s home was a gathering place for artists like Langston Hughes, Zora Neale Hurston and W.E.B. Du Bois.

Of course peer beyond the eye-catching, larger than life accessories and you saw what was an incredibly convincing proposal for Pyer Moss couture. Kerby’s renowned zeal for primary colors and graphic prints was tempered by candy pastels and airy formalwear fabrics.

“The stories the world tells us about us are about pain. The stories we tell about each other about our own lives are about how grandma loved us with bible verses and lemonade, how bloodlines never defined who our aunts and uncles were, how the house was always big enough to take in everybody we loved,” the show notes continued. “We hold stories of glory in our bodies. Black imagination is this world’s greatest technology.

For all its sense of celebration and refinement, this was hardly a collection that shied away from more sober contemplation. The last model walked the runway wearing a mini fridge with the words “But who invented Black trauma?” spelled out across the front over a pearlescent ruffle dress. And the rapper 22GZ closed out the show with his song “King of NY”.

 

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