Food Workers Spent the Past Year Giving Back Through Pop-Ups. What Happens When They Have to Go Back to Work?

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Chefs and bakers are struggling to figure out how to make pandemic-born mutual aid pop-ups sustainable going forward

in front of his apartment, developing his own sandwiches and sauces, and partnering with local businesses. It’s not uncommon to see a line around the block for his barbecue, or for it to sell out within a matter of hours.

He is adapting for what the future might hold, registering as an LLC in case he has an opportunity to participate in bigger food festivals. Like Sokolow, he has modified what percentage of proceeds from each event goes to any given charity; “Right now I have like $10,000 on my credit card, which is fine,” he said. “But that’s not a great way to do something long-term.” In the future, there may be fewer pop-ups, or a lower percentage of sales donated to charity.

These businesses have relied on a regular influx of orders to keep things going, and at the beginning of the pandemic, there seemed to be no shortage. People were bored, worried, and ready to spend on a rack of ribs or a loaf of bread if they knew the money was going to help their neighbors. But now LA-based chef Heleo Leyva is considering winding down hissince monetary donations are starting to dry up.

 

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