The past European men’s collections still weren’t business as usual, but a growing number of IRL shows and the return of a physical Pitti Uomo generated some much-needed hope and positive energy. No wonder one of the main trends of spring was Party Time.
Meanwhile, the existential question — to suit or not to suit — keeps hovering during talk of men’s return to the office. Designers provided their own answer for spring with a transition suit model that combines the comfort elements of work-from-home with heritage features.
“Climb Every Mountain” might be the perfect show tune to capture designers’ attitude for spring. A renewed love of everything outdoors during the pandemic has led to discovering the pleasures of utility garments with technical performance features by a whole new set of fashion explorers. Junya Watanabe’s military-inspired parka, a mixed-media multipocket suit at Mihara Yasuhiro, a hybrid trenchcoat at Sacai and an oversized utility vest at Hed Mayner are just some of the examples.
The days of gray, navy and black being the leading men’s wear shades are long gone — designers opted for screaming neons, monochromatic pastels and bright gradation effects for next season. Time to shine a bright light.
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