Botswana's Xigera Lodge is a work of art in one of Africa's Seven Wonders

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The waterways and islands in the Okavango Delta are a masterpiece, and a perfect backdrop for the ‘living gallery’ that is Xigera Safari Lodge

Thanks to a collaboration with Southern Guild gallery in Cape Town, many objects - functional and lovely - have big names behind them. That huge cocoon chair is a human weavers' nest by South African design big-deal Porky Hefer. The twisting benches here and there were made on site during lockdown from fallen trees by wood whisperer Adam Birch, who also trained a Xigera team in his techniques while he was in residence.

My cruise by glass-bottomed, engined boat is a rush, but the mokoro excursion is a waking dream of dawdling through a giant bed of water lilies and papyrus reeds.The silence is near absolute, save for birdsong and the swishing of guide Eliah Kengalogile's. There are painted reed frogs and dragonflies and long-limbed jacanas, nicknamed Jesus birds for their ability to"walk on water".

"Xigera", I've heard, means pied kingfisher. Actually it is the word for the moment when the bird, hunting, hits the water. The way Gambule says it, the K includes a click of the tongue.

 

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