Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland Sohla?” the video begins. “Do you have a minute?” The stars of Bon Appétit’s Test Kitchen have so many questions, and Sohla El-Waylly is like their own human Alexa: Sohla, how do you temper chocolate? Sohla, how do you pronounce turmeric? Sohla, what’s a dosa? El-Waylly appears on command — busy, patient, with a neatly cut bob — to answer.
From an early age, El-Waylly was in the kitchen alongside her mother, Salma Banu. She grew up in the San Fernando Valley in Los Angeles, where her parents owned and operated Baskin-Robbins ice-cream stores. She gets her sense of adventure from Banu, who liked to go to a specialty market, pick an unfamiliar ingredient, and figure out how to cook with it.
After the restaurant folded, El-Waylly made her way into food media — first at Serious Eats, where she quit after about a year , and then at Bon Appétit in 2019. The eventual Test Kitchen implosion was unavoidable. “Sohla’s never changed,” says Ham. “She’s not one to stay quiet and eat her words if she sees something wrong.”
As we talk about Bon Appétit, El-Waylly’s mood darkens. She’s still processing what happened, because it raised existential questions of value — who deserves what and how much. Sometimes she wishes she had never taken the job. “This stuff really gets in your soul,” she says. “My husband, he’s half Bolivian and half Egyptian, and we’ve been talking about how we’ve internalized these things. That we really think we are worthless, so you don’t want to ask for more.
e_alexjung The “features” she wasn’t paid for were those last 15sec of the video where they sample food. Also she is now the sidekick to Andrew Rea, a white man with zero professional experience. Ironic!
e_alexjung She had a right to feel this way and take action. I also worked at various Conde Nast magazines in entry-level jobs back in 2001 and remember being made to feel that I wasn’t acting “grateful” enough (ie groveling) working there. Horrible atmosphere.
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