Nature’s greenery has been the backdrop for the majority of designers in Milan Fashion Week. Although a few creatives have staged events in green gardens with random, socially separated seats, most have used their ingenuity to capture an audience digitally.
As models walk deserted, dreamlike Italian streets , the shows for Spring/Summer 2021 have abandoned the physical audience in favour of the metaphoric. But it was Giorgio Armani, 86, who took a powerful step forward by showing next season’s collection – female and male – live on Italian TV station La7.
On prime time, mid-Saturday night, the half-hour slot marked the ultimate democratisation of fine fashion, with the show also streamed on the brand’s website and social media channels.“This has been a while in my thought process, with the sole aim of reaching as many of the public as is possible – regardless of the fact that all will be behind closed doors,” the designer said in a letter to me, adding that he was calling the show ‘Timeless Thoughts’.
To explain what is described in the industry as “a dazzlingly consistent style”, the designer added: “It is the result of a process of subtraction.”It is, indeed, exceptional – even extraordinary – to produce multiple collections within one spirit but all subtly different. For example, the colours, rising from the first meld of the designer’s famous ‘greige’ , created a luminous effect in the fabric, while translucent jewels added a glassy touch.
The colours cycled through shades of icy blue to warmer pale pinks and crisper black and white. It would be hard for either sex not to find clothes suitable for the office . But the effect of the varied textures and colours was striking. For evening, there were black dresses with a scattering of blue flowers or crisp checks. Colours, including a soft green, were in subtle, faint shades - while the textures made stronger statements.
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