Meet the young designer dismantling Brazilian body standards

“Where I come from, the body standards you’re expected to live up are completely different to those you find in the UK,” explains

In Karoline’s homeland, a wasp-waisted Kim K-inspired silhouette is placed high on an ideological pedestal, with the pressure to achieve such improbable proportions leading the designer to waist-training: “I had a cincher that I bought in Brazil a few years ago,” she says.

Eager to explore the phenomenon further, she placed herself at the heart of her research, taking a series of photographs of her in the cincher, highlighting the war waged between the restrictive garment and the flesh it sought to contain. “To be able to discuss body image, it needed to come from a very personal place -- I can’t talk about how other people feel about their bodies, I can only talk from my perspective.

Where her final jersey garments are fluid, framing the body with sculptural poise, the process documentation is a frank exposé of how garments and bodies interact. “I saw the documentation of my process as a way of drawing attention to the things we think we hide or disguise,” she says. “As I wanted the final garments to be wearable and comfortable, that message isn’t necessarily as present there as it is in the process.

For obvious reasons.

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