Emile restaurant review: Catch it while you can

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From the team behind the Drapers Arms pub is this pop-up, with simple, but competent cooking full of unfussy piggy joy and the capital’s new pasta standard, says Ed Cumming

ecently, I’ve been learning about having a baby, which has been a good chance to remind myself of one of my favourite pubs.Research shows that it’s crucial to expose unborn children to superior gastropubs, and they don’t come much better: a set of high-ceilinged rooms in Barnsbury, the most genteel of the Islington micro-boroughs, with well-kept beer, interesting wines and robust grub.

 

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